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Every time Caroline* (not her real name) looked in the mirror, she disliked her appearance. Whenever she took a selfie, she would apply filters that made her look lighter than her natural skin tone.
One day, while scrolling through the internet, she discovered a skin-bleaching product that she believed would change her life for good.“At first, it was all good. I was excited. Then, after a year, I started getting black spots on my bleached skin. My feet began swelling, and the doctor told me that my kidneys had been affected by the bleaching,” she narrates.
When Johnstone Olang, 50, wakes up every morning, he wonders how to take care of his lighter skin. He never forgets to use a cream that lightens the skin on his hands and face. Olang has been bleaching since childhood and is unapologetic about it. He ignores the whispers whenever people stare. He started feeling uncomfortable with his skin at the age of five. His siblings were light-skinned, and at age 10, a friend whispered about a cream that could make him look like them.“I wanted to resemble them. I felt like an outcast. I was never happy being dark-skinned,” he says.
Jacqueline Gathu, a psychologist, explains that many people use skin-bleaching products to impress the opposite sex.
“The other reason is colorism, which is prejudice or discrimination against individuals with darker skin tones, typically within the same ethnic or racial group,” she says.
A 2010 study titled “Skin Bleaching in Jamaica: Self-Esteem, Racial Self-Esteem, and Black Identity Transactions” examined the self-esteem (SE) and racial self-esteem (RSE) of black Jamaicans. The study found that people who bleached had lower self-esteem than those who didn't, but both groups had similar racial self-esteem. These findings suggest a negative relationship between self-esteem and skin bleaching.
Research by PZ Cussons, a leading manufacturer of personal healthcare products, indicates that Gen Z is becoming more individualistic in their beauty standards. This represents a shift from the historical view that beauty was defined by a single standard.
“If you look at the 70s, 80s, 90s, and early 2000s, beauty standards were largely defined by figures we saw on TV. Tyra Banks, for example, was the epitome of beauty,” says Hafsa Arthur, the regional head of category and brands at PZ Cussons.
Hafsa adds that for Africans and people of color to fight colorism, it’s important to acknowledge its existence. In Ghana, some pregnant women take pills hoping to have babies with lighter skin.
“There’s also a particular clan, of which I’m partially a part, where when a baby is born, we hold what’s called the ‘outdooring’ ceremony. A few days after birth, the mother starts bleaching her skin because she wants to look good for the ceremony,” she narrates.
“We focus on using natural ingredients in our products to enhance beauty, rather than removing the natural African skin tone,” she adds.
Dr. Saini Roop, a consultant dermatologist, says skin bleaching is a common but very risky practice, not just in Kenya but across the globe.
“While many people use skin-bleaching products to address dark spots, uneven skin tone, hyperpigmentation, and scars, bleached skin is weaker and less able to withstand ultraviolet (UV) rays,” she explains.
Companies that sell these products also promote the idea that lighter skin is more desirable, causing people to believe that skin bleaching is the best solution. These perceptions have been passed down through colonial history and are reinforced by media and societal expectations.
“There are safe treatments for hyperpigmentation, dark spots, and uneven skin tone, but bleaching your entire skin is never safe. Some ingredients like vitamin C, niacinamide (Vitamin B-3), and kojic acid are dermatologically-approved,” Dr. Roop says.
However, many bleaching creams contain harmful chemicals like steroids, which can lead to skin thinning and other long-term health issues.“A high dosage of hydroquinone can cause Ochronosis, a paradoxical permanent darkening of the skin. Other chemicals, like mercury, can damage the skin and nerves. Many products on the market pose health risks,” she warns.
Dr. Roop explains that skin bleaching can lead to extreme sensitivity, acne, and Ochronosis, a bluish-black discoloration of the skin. The kidneys can also be damaged due to mercury poisoning, while steroid-based creams can impact metabolism, leading to high blood pressure and diabetes. Long-term use of these products may even increase the risk of skin cancer.
Mental health is also affected when these products harm the body. Dermatologists strongly advise against skin bleaching due to the associated risks.“Instead of changing your skin color, focus on healthy skin care. Healthy skin is more beautiful, no matter the complexion,” says Dr. Roop.
With many skin-bleaching clinics in Nairobi, it is hard to determine which ones use legitimate products, as most are profit-driven rather than focused on promoting healthy skin. In October 2022, the Kenya Bureau of Standards (KEBS) seized and banned 435 cosmetic products from the market. These included skin-brightening lotions, creams, gels, and soaps that contained hydroquinone, mercury, and other harmful compounds.
Dr. Roop mentions that skin bleaching can be reversed if it has only been done for a short period. When someone stops using the products and adopts healthy skin care habits, healing is possible, though extreme sensitivity to the sun may remain a challenge.
“If you’ve used bleaching products and want to heal your skin, stop using them immediately and visit a registered dermatologist. They can assess the damage and recommend safe options or other treatments like pills or laser therapy,” Dr. Roop advises. “Your dermatologist will also evaluate any internal health issues, including mental health concerns.”
Skin bleaching is not just a beauty trend; it's a public health concern. Everyone deserves to feel beautiful in their natural skin, without being influenced by external pressures such as social media.
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