From flawless to flawed: The hidden dangers of skincare products

Young Kenyan women are increasingly turning to cosmetics despite the potential dangers posed by the products.

Cosmetic shops often sell some of the most potent products, some of which can react negatively with human skin. Despite the significant risks associated with many of these products, women continue to use them without consulting doctors.

In major towns across East Africa, skin medications are being used as cosmetics without any supervision, largely due to users’ ignorance. Skin treatment ointments and lotions are potent substances intended to treat specific skin conditions or diseases. Therefore, they have no legitimate purpose for cosmetic use.

According to dermatologists, the potency of these products varies from one formulation to another. Products, such as Dermovate, Diprosone, Betnovate, Nerisone, Mediven, and Hydrocortisone are among those commonly used. However, these are strictly prescription-only products, designed for treating specific conditions, with doctors determining when, where, and for how long they should be used, explains Dr Melanie Miyanji, a consultant dermatologist and venereologist.

Dr Miyanji, a former medical consultant at the Aga Khan Hospital and the former chairperson of the Kenya Society of Cosmetology and Allergology, highlights the serious consequences that can arise from the improper use of these skin products, particularly when used for longer than prescribed. She cautions women who desire to look beautiful to exercise great care when using these lotions.

The dermatologist also emphasises that even during the short prescribed periods of use, it is advisable for a medical doctor to monitor the patient’s progress with the treatment.

“It is truly distressing to see these products being used as cosmetics or creams to embellish one’s face and body,” she says. The immediate improvement in skin appearance, such as the clearing of blemishes, is often due to the anti-inflammatory action of these creams. However, women are reminded that these creams are intended for specific skin diseases and can cause serious issues when used improperly.

“Corticosteroid preparations can indeed cause skin problems,” explains Dr. Nick Okoth, another Kenyan dermatologist based in South Sudan. These issues include thinning of the skin, loss of natural colour, increased fragility, and poor healing. Stretch marks can also develop. Dr. Okoth adds that these products are toxic and can easily damage the upper layers of the skin, potentially causing rashes.

These substances can also trigger or exacerbate other skin infections, including bacterial, viral, and fungal infections. “The worst effect is that they can be absorbed into the bloodstream, leading to complications in other body systems. These products can mask underlying skin diseases, delaying diagnosis and appropriate treatment, potentially causing irreversible damage,” he warns.

The more immediate and noticeable the effects of a product appear, the more potent it likely is, and this should serve as a warning to women about its toxicity. For this reason, it is essential for women to seek a doctor’s consent before using these cosmetics.

Many cosmetics contain addictive chemicals, such as polyethylene glycol, hydroquinone, and heavy metals, which pose significant health risks, including neurotoxicity, carcinogenicity, and reproductive disorders. Common side effects include allergies and skin irritability, which can range from minor redness and itching to severe allergic reactions.

Endocrine disruptors are among the dangerous chemicals found in cosmetics, and these can contribute to cancer. Direct skin exposure to these chemicals, or exposure through hand-to-mouth contact around the lips, can lead to oral ingestion.

When used from hand to mouth around lips can cause oral exposure. Other dangers linked to the use of un-prescribed lotions, are hormonal imbalances, fertility issues, asthma, eczema or dermatitis, experts say. And doctors give general tips for remedies or prevention that one must: read the label carefully and ensure you get all the information plus possible warning of side effects.

Wash your hands before you use cosmetics, do not share your makeup, keep the container clean and tightly closed when not in use and protect the products from extreme temperatures. Throw away the product if there are changes in colour and different smell abd check the expiry date of the cosmetic. Also, read and understand the harsh ingredients that leave heavy impact on your skin’s health.

Symptoms, such as stinging, burning, dryness, thinning of the skin, discolouration, or stretch marks should be addressed by a physician if they persist.

However, good skincare is essential at any age to protect, prepare, and strengthen your skin against the effects of ageing. The skin naturally produces strong collagen and elastic fibres in your 20s and 30s, so it must be protected with the correct skincare products, as prescribed by a qualified doctor, medical experts advise. Dr. Okoth urges young women who want to enhance their appearance to seek guidance from a qualified dermatologist.