New dawn as Kenya shifts to organic coffee farming

Since its inception in 2016, African Coffee Roasters has built a lucrative business exporting high volumes of Kenyan coffee, renowned as the world’s finest for its unique flavour profile and exceptional quality.

However, the world is undergoing a major shift in food consumption, with consumers increasingly demanding sustainably produced products and services. As a result, more people are turning to organically grown produce.

This, as conventional produce is often associated with health and environmental concerns caused by farming practices that contribute to ecosystem destruction, the use of synthetic fertilisers and harmful pesticides.

This shift is what led to African Coffee Roasters beginning to lose market share, as it continued to rely on exporting conventional coffee.

Jane Njeri, the Sustainability and Compliance Manager at African Coffee Roasters, confirms that the company has been experiencing reduced volumes in the handling of conventional coffee.

“Our markets, particularly in the European Union (EU), have been shifting towards organic-certified coffee. Since we didn’t have organic-certified coffee, our market volumes have been steadily declining,” she explains.

Ms Njeri explains that as a Kenyan company, Africa Coffee Roasters recognised the importance of identifying local willing farmers and supporting them in transitioning to organic coffee.

In September 2020, the TRACE Kenya project, funded by the Ministry of Foreign Affairs of Denmark (DANIDA) and implemented by Solidaridad East and Central Africa in partnership with African Coffee Roasters, began identifying and building the capacity of coffee farmers to enable them to produce coffee that meets consumer demands and global organic market standards.

The Coffee Research Institute (CRI) sensitised and trained over 25,301 smallholder farmers in Nandi, Kericho and Bungoma Counties on innovative organic coffee farming practices, helping them successfully transition from conventional production systems.

Micah Tarus explains the project helped him successfully adopt organic farming practices such as effective pruning, agroforestry practices, mulching, intercropping coffee bushes with avocado trees, compost production and the use of liquid fertilisers.

“Initially, shifting from conventional to organic was challenging since I was used to using fertiliser,” explains Tarus, a member of the Kapkiyai Multipurpose Cooperative Society in Nandi County.

Today, he no longer incurs costs for fertilisers and pesticides. Instead, he makes his own manure from food leftovers and other materials available on the farm.

Over the years, Mr Tarus has noticed a significant increase in organic coffee production, with each coffee tree yielding 4kg annually, compared to 1kg under conventional farming methods. His overall farm yield has risen to 1500, up from 400kg he previously produced.

Humkel Produce Ltd Chief Executive Pius Mutay says despite the difficulties during transition, he’s now a proud certified organic farmer. He emphasises that organic farming requires patience, humility, and passion.

“Abandoning conventional coffee was difficult, but the promise of ready markets in Australia and Germany motivated us to persist. In the end, our hard work paid off. What started as a bitter journey has now turned sweet, as we begin exporting our organic coffee,” he shares.

Mutay learnt timely planting, weeding, using worm composting to create manure, manufacturing liquid fertilisers, recycling wastewater, canopy management and planting of pest- and disease-resistant varieties, the Ruiru 11 and Batian coffee.

He highlights the rigorous inspections required before certification. Before obtaining certification, local coffee farmers must complete a three-year conversion period, during which they are required to fully adopt organic farming practices.

These practices include complete avoidance of synthetic chemicals and other banned substances. Among the certifying bodies are the Rainforest Alliance and Fairtrade.

African Coffee Roasters Chief Executive Jacob Elsborg highlights the need for farmers to transition from conventional to organic coffee farming.

“Our export markets have been asking for organic coffee. If farmers don’t shift from conventional farming to organic practices, they risk being excluded from certain markets,” he explained at the close of the recent Traceable Organic Coffee from Kenya project.

Reflecting on the last five-year journey, Mr Elsborg acknowledged that the transition has not been easy but has paid off, with Kenya now offering organic coffee for both local consumption and export. Already, the first shipment of 13,000kg of organic coffee is bound for Germany, the  Netherlands and Finland.

Mr Elsborg revealed that more foreign markets are showing interest in Kenyan organic coffee, particularly in Scandinavia, Denmark, Sweden, Norway, Germany and EU markets. In fact, a buyer from Australia who had left over 10 years ago has now returned after learning Kenya produces organic coffee.

“Today, we can tell our clients that we have Kenyan coffee. While the quantities are still small, we hope that in the long term, the volumes will increase,” he said.

Solidarity East and Central Africa Managing Director Rachel Wanyoike said the launch marked a milestone in the coffee sector for Kenya.