Mao stares upon China to date: Reflections of a Kenyan scribe

Throughout the journey, I was in deep reflection absently holding a handbook in my hands, eager to know more about this man, what he stood for, and why the people in China hold him in high regard.

We arrived at Shaoshan, and from a distance, I was drawn to the towering 36-metre-high bronze statue of Mao.

The statue was erected to commemorate the 100th anniversary of Chairman Mao’s birth.

Pilgrims from all walks of life flock to the area in what looks like an endless stream to lay flower baskets at the bronze statue, which is followed by three bows.

I am told that was a sign of respect. 

“Wait a minute, are those cigarettes?” I asked our tour guide. She smiled and said, “Yes, they are. Visitors not only lay flowers but also cigarettes to symbolise Chairman Mao’s love for cigarettes. He was a chain smoker and would smoke at least three packs a day.” 

Right behind the statue, you cannot help but notice a building that stood tall at the top of the tallest mountain in the area. That is Wen Qimei, Mao’s mother’s Buddhist temple, we were told.

The temple is situated at Mt Hengshan, also known as the Southern Mountain of the five sacred mountains in China, located in Hengyang City in Hunan Province. His mother was his first love, and they had a strong connection. 

Then our journey into the museum began.

We found another statue made of white stone, and on the wall, photographs that told the story of the man born on December 26, 1893, who later became founder of the People’s Republic of China, as it is known today.

He was the chairman of the Chinese Communist Party from 1949 until his death in 1976. The photos told the story of diplomatic ties he developed with Africa and how he interacted with leaders and people from the region.

He was a prolific writer, and has more than 40 books in a distinctive handwriting. His books and articles are neatly displayed in the museum, along with some of his personal belongings that are preserved nearly 50 years since he died. 

Behind every powerful man lies a woman, or so they say.  Chairman Mao had four wives, though, at different times.

What stood out about his love story, however, was the fact that, like his father, some of his wives were older than him.

Mao’s first wife was 19, and he was 15. His second wife was his teacher’s daughter. Mao had five children with the four wives. 

About a five-minute walk from the museum, we took a tour of his family home. We were told that Mao’s family house had 13 and a half rooms.

The half room was because Mao’s family shared the house with another family. We toured each and every room.

It was hard to imagine that such a powerful leader lived with his parents and siblings in such a simple house. Most of the belongings are still in their original state, with family photos hanging on the wall.

Outside the family house is a natural pool where he swam to cool off, have fun, and relax. Next to the house is his kindergarten, where he started his journey in education.

Mao is also known for his love for spicy food.

Before heading to the next stop, we were invited to a local, famous restaurant to learn more about his ways through his favourite delicacies. Over lunch, laughter filled the room, with conversations here and there about his childhood and his love life.

As the night went by, I remembered my first encounter with Chairman Mao’s history during my tour of Beijing in November, last year.