The hidden gems in Kenya's Deep South

The Deep South is Kwale, it’s the southernmost county. Why does it qualify to be deep? The USA Deep South includes Louisiana, Mississippi, Alabama, Georgia, and South Carolina. These mostly rural states were dependent on slavery and plantations before the Civil War. Add the
predominance of religion.

I lived in the US Deep South for several years and have great memories of the place - not all very pleasant, like being asked every day when I am going home. Over a cup of tea, I can share more, including limits to women's empowerment.

Kwale County has some characteristics of the US Deep South; rural, religious and culturally conservative. A recent visit there was fascinating. The Dongo Kundu bypass to the south coast has made the south more accessible, or shallower, away from Likoni Ferry. Can we get a viewpoint to admire the port and its ships on our way to the south? 

After Ukunda or Tiwi, the Deep South starts; the level of economic activities falls, and the architecture turns traditional with makuti roofs. The pace of life slows. By the time you get to Perani, near Lunga Lunga, you feel like you are in another country. Few women walk without shukas. Men have fez on their heads. Lots of school children, mostly girls, cover their heads and wear open shoes or no shoes at all. 

The predominance of traditional mango trees confirms the depth. Lots of mangoes are on sale near small towns. Around Ramisi, the weather changes, and even eucalyptus trees show up. Sugar plantations make the place closer to the USA Deep South. Remember the plantations?

I was told the factory operates part-time. The site of this factory and mining company Base Titanium are like economic aberrations. 

A town called Mrima evokes political emotions. But most towns to Lunga Lunga are small, with few permanent buildings. They include Ng’ombeni, Waa, Ukunda, and a primary school called Calcium (why), Msambweni among others. They have traditional buildings cross-pollinated with some modernism.

Lunga Lunga is 120 km from Mombasa. Malindi is about the same distance. We have an airport at Malindi. Any at Lunga Lunga? Part of deep Southerners?

One of my economic observations is the few trucks between Mombasa and Lunga Lunga and by extension northern Tanzania. Is this yet another sign of deep Southerners? At the border, I found a few trucks too. Considering that Tanga is only 75km away, there should be more traffic than that. Was it the January effect? Is Lunga Lunga torn between two big towns like Ruiru? Do Kenyans use the airport at Tanga? 

I crossed over to Tanzania to sample life. I took a soda and bought a bottle of water. The soda was 350ml, the water 1.6 litres. Why such volumes? All cost me Sh100! While leaving, I was told beer goes for Sh80; I’ll return to confirm. Crossing a border can make such an economic difference.

I learnt some deep Swahili; magiti (metal grill) and wakala (finance agent).   

A visit to Kenya’s Deep South is not complete without a quick tour of Shimoni and spectacular sunsets with Wasini Island across. Small boats either fishing or hoping to take you to Wasini dot the beach.

The Deep South should be one of Kenya’s leading economic zones, bordering another country and along the ocean. Beyond the beach hotels, this region can do better. Checking the map, I noted Pemba Island is not far. How come we only hear of Zanzibar and not Pemba and her cloves? What is the missing link? 

To get value for my visit, I had to visit the North Coast in Kilifi. Been there several times but wanted to extend the limits of possibility. The climax was a visit to the sand dunes at Mambrui, only 20km north of Malindi. It is the most spectacular place I have visited in Kenya, only rivalled by the
Great Wall of China. Sand dunes that I thought were only in northern Kenya, Sahara, Kalahari or Dubai are there in full splendour.

A few young men organise the tour, including providing an “Arafat”, a scarf to protect you from the wind and sand. Do geography teachers in Kenya know of these dunes? I can’t use words to describe the beauty of the sand dunes, just visit!

I felt cheated for visiting Dubai sand dunes and paying a fortune. Lots of visitors from desert regions of Kenya were visiting Mambrui - homesickness, perhaps?

I did not mind the hot weather, which was compensated by low prices in hotels. I got convinced we do not know our country and the Ministry of Tourism must go beyond beaches, safaris and the Big 5. I was told to visit Marafa in the same county to see other spectacular sites that rival America’s Grand Canyon.

Aboard the SGR train, I came to a sad conclusion; our counties suffer from the tragedy of familiarity. They do not know what they have and how to market it. How can we unlock the economic potential of tourism in our no-longer-young nation? Over to counties and entrepreneurs.